Ifsc rules bolt holes reddit. Bolt hole is covered: good luck.

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Ifsc rules bolt holes reddit they work great as thumb-catches on a hold or to improve pinching power on a volume. The official rules state that you can grab the holes on climbing holds but not on the wall. ” Maybe your area is a special case, but everywhere I've been setters tend to set with the assumption people climb along rules similar to IFSC rules. The home of Climbing on reddit. The other climbing forums I'm in (non reddit) seem to be in general consensus that it's against the rules/the rules should be further revised. Good setters put up routes with the bolt holes in mind. or if youre doing a palm press on a wall you may aswell align the pads of your fingers with a couple of bolt holes just for the extra 3% Bolt holes on holds are on for competition. Bolt holes, screw holes, etc: T-Nuts are out (the holes on walls and volumes) for your hands (you can jam your toes in them though which is super useful for getting a bit of extra purchase when standing on a volume). Heard that mentioned in the ifsc broadcasts a few times Edit: just checked the 2023 rules, section 8. 9. The T-nut holes on the wall are off as the threading on them can be dangerous if your finger is in them and you fall. I've not read anything in the most recent ruling against using the trim of a hold, and even if it's just the tip of your finger touching, it's functionally the same as those climbs that have a no shadow hold for the iv) any bolt hanger fixed to the Climbing Surface; or v) any Protection Point or the climbing rope; International Level Athletes means, for the purposes of the IFSC Anti-Doping Rules, any competitors selected to be part of the Testing Pool and Registered Testing Pool (as these are defined within the IFSC Anti-Doping Rules) and in addition: Not volumes unless the start holds are screwed onto them, I believe. No bolt hole cover: bolt hole is in. Bolt holes and screw holes (the ones in the actual holds) are allowed to be used, the setters can block them if you want. Check with your local gym regarding this rule because they can be different. 1. Maybe it's different in other gyms, but my gym sets very speicifically. At the gym you can have your own way of doing it, no one gets to prescribe that to you, but they’re generally prohibited wherever there are rules. However, I’ll explain the official IFSC rules regarding bolt holes. It's only considered poor form by indoor climbers who don't know better. IFSC rules are against it. Uses with their hands any holes provided for the placement of bolt-on holds , excluding any such hole on a bolt-on hold. May 14, 2024 · Bolt holes. Purposefully eliminating elements of holds that are part of the route is just tough-guy stuff. 9 The attempt of a competitor on a route shall be considered unsuccessful if the competitor: iv. . Posted by u/flappyblister - 4 votes and 10 comments Great question ! ifsc rules say that you cannot use the holes in the wall for you hands, but this is not a competition and you do you :) to practice some of the moves on this route I did a few attempts where I used the holes, on that kind of slab using the holes helps immensely, using the holes I would say that the route is V6~ From a comp persepctive, based on ifsc rules, I'm pretty sure it counts (aside from the time aspect that youve already covered). IFSC Rules 6. 18 clearly states non-start „structures“ are off limit 319 votes, 27 comments. Whenever they have a technical meeting for youth competitions this is a question that frequently gets asked. Bolt hole is covered: good luck. And yes we are scared of falling. 9 “The attempt of a competitor on a route shall be considered unsuccessful if the competitor iv. Uses with their hands any holes provided for the placement of bolt-on holds , excluding any such hole on a bolt-on hold; Hole in a wall\volume - verboten. Bolt holes (in holds and volumes) are always on, and are sometimes a really interesting part of a problem. If the setters truly didn’t want you to use them, they would be blocked. That means the empty t-nut holes in the wall are not part of the problem, since it's just impossible to cover hundreds of them for a single boulder. According to the IFSC Rule Book section 6. There have been climbs there where the bolt hole was part of the beta shrug. The bolt-holes in the wall Holds in different colors than the problem you're climbing To succesfully complete a problem you need to touch the final hold with both hands, in a stable position (so no jumping past and tapping it while falling). d) Uses with their hands any holes provided for the placement of bolt-on holds , excluding any such hole on a bolt-on hold; You can use the drill holes (but not the bolt-on holes of volumes) (according IFSC rules), but it's considered cheating , but not using that to your advantage in a competition is not smart ;). But the judges didn't call it (and acknowledged it was OK), so the tops and placements in the comp are legitimate. Hole in a bolted on hold - permitted. My current understanding of the rules are: Wall: no fingers in bolt holes Volumes: no fingers in bolt holes, screw holes are fair game Holds: both bolt and screw holes are fair game (backed up by the 2016 manual but contradicted by the German competition) The IFSC rules define all bolt holes, whether on the climbing surface (wall, volumes) or structures (holds) as illegal aid. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. But at the same time, bolt holes in the wall are definitely out. Posted by u/soaringturkeys - 513 votes and 45 comments We have a similar impression of the rules and what "T-nut" means, T-nut being the hole. There are bolt hole covers that setters can place in them to block it from use. i never put my fingers INSIDE the holes, but they can be a great help just by putting the pads of your fingers over them. mtojmi yayhzz rkwavkns djzrih mjjgnv hep dgwljz semmxg lvu pjir